The thick and thin of sashiko threads!

How to choose sashiko thread to suit your project?

There are so many variables in sashiko stitching, and one of them is in the differences between the threads available.   

Some produce bold, heavy stitches while others look finer and more delicate. 

The reason for this? Different projects and different fabrics need different looks.

One of the things I love about sashiko stitching is how much has not been standardised into the 'right way' to do it. It began as a way of making warmer fabrics (quilting layers of cloth together) and mending fabrics to get longer wear (use) from them. 

Although we often use it for decorative stitching projects now, the common sense of its roots remain. 

In other words, the answer to which thread thickness you should use is, you should use the one that your own good sense and your own preference suggests will give the result you want.

But still

if you are buying online and/or are new to sashiko stitching, it is not easy to figure out which thread to order.

There is no manufacturing standardisation for sizing sashiko threads. Sometimes you will see 20/another number.  This second number indicated the number of strands twisted into the thread. But as the strands themselves may vary in how they look and perform based on their twist, thickness, and finish, you really can't use it as more than a rule of thumb. Ie. 20/4 will always be quite thin, 20/8 will be pretty thick.

These are the threads in the photo above:

• The peach one is Olympus Kogin thread and is the thickest,
• The blue is Olympus sashiko 20 meter skein and is often the weight used for the standard for sashiko stitching. 
• The beige one is Olympus 100 meter skeins, these threads are slightly thinner than the 20 meter skein threads.
• The green ball is Olympus thin sashiko thread and it is the thinest of them all.
•  The two on cards are Daruma, the black card is the thin one.
• The green label skein is a more string like rougher sashiko thread, very nice for boro style stitching or if you like lots of texture in your work.
• The front one, Cosmo Hidamari, has smoothest hardest finish of the threads, strong, good for mending.

And here is a bit of a guideline for why you would choose one rather than another:

 Use  thin thread with lightweight fabrics (Daruma 20/6 and 20/4 and Olympus ball thin are thin). Thinner threads are also the winners when you are stitching a dense pattern, or patterns printed with very short stitch lengths, or where the are tight curves.

(This photo shows the difference in the look of thin vrs thicker sashiko threads)

Use medium  thickness sashiko threads for almost everything! Well, okay, maybe not on fine silk or really light weight fine linen fabric. (Olympus 20 meter skeins and 100 meter skeins, and the Cosmo Hidamari  are good mid weight choices)

(This photo shows cloth stitched with mid weight Olympus 20 meter skein thread) Save thick sashiko thread  for where you want serious texture from the stitching because it is going to make a statement. Also use it with thick heavy fabrics. (Kogin thread or any sashiko thread that is 20/8 or 20/10).

(This photo shows a thicker sashiko thread look. This thread is not one of the main 3 I recommended but I like it and you can find it on www.athreadedneedle.com)

When you are stitching at this level, do look about for other kinds of string-like thread. Depending on your project even knitting wool can used to good effect. I use it when stitching background for felted wool applique pieces. 

All of these threads are good for mending, again which one you choose is up to what you think will will be best for the fabric and purpose. 

All of these threads are colour fast, good quality , machine wash and dry.

And all are available at  www.athreadedneedle.com, but you knew that already :-)

(Here is a photo of the 100 meter skeins Olympus thread, it is just slightly thinner than the 20 meter skeins Olympus thread)

This photo is of a well-washed towel stitched with Olympus 20 meter skein sashiko thread. Its a good example of how this thread looses the bit of fuzziness that sometimes happens with it. (If you have trouble with it being fizzy on your project, try stitching with a shorter thread length to reduce the amount of friction on it as it passes through the cloth repeatedly.  Machine washing and drying a couple times usually will make it disappear.

Enjoy your stitching and kind regards

Susan